dogs

Exploring the mountains and wadis (valleys) of Oman is an excellent way to spend time and learn about traditional Omani culture. The natural environment is unlike anything I have ever seen before, and despite having lived near the mountains and traveled extensively through them, they still offer stunning views. A further benefit is the ability to talk to Omanis that are more traditional than conservative. This may seem counterintuitive, but after talking to numerous locals from very small and isolated mountain villages, I think it's true.

Contrary to popular belief, the Arab world has not always been this conservative. Across the board, it is probably more conservative in its approach to Islam now than it has ever been. Comparing Rustaq and any of the mountain villages is a good barometer of that fact. In the isolated villages and rural homes, Omani women do not where the black abaya, hijab, or niqab (cloak, headscarf, or face veil). They wear colored floral patterns of a similar cloak and headscarf, but never a face covering or any black colors. This is in stark contrast to the markets of Rustaq, Nakhal, or other regional cities in the area. The women are all modestly dressed, covered in a conservative fashion, yet village women who are often uneducated or unfamiliar with even the regional cities would appear to be far less conservative than their semi-urban counterparts.

A different but also telling example of this traditional vs. conservative reality is the pet. In the cities, it is extremely rare to find people keeping animals that are not exclusively for food or transport. Goats, sheep, chickens, donkeys, and camels are plentiful and seen as a symbol of wealth, but cats and dogs are chased and seen as dirty. Dogs are even mentioned in Islamic texts as being unclean animals. I have a friend with a dog who cannot take it outside without being extremely careful to avoid local Omanis in the city where we work.

In the small wadi towns this is very different. At numerous villages, I have seen both cats and dogs living in close proximity to the houses and interacting with the people in a very friendly way. Furthermore, I even spoke with one Omani who kept a dog as a pet. He named his dog Diwan, after the bureaucracy in Muscat. The dog was healthy, friendly, and the Omani regularly pet him during our conversation. He said that indeed dogs are dirty animals according to Islam, yet so long as you wash your hands three times before eating or praying, it isn't a problem. In my opinion, this is a far more moderate and thought-out interpretation of Islam compared to the mainstream view that dogs are dirty and not to be touched.

In short, I think there is a wealth of information about the resurgence of Islam in the modern world, but all too often reporters and Westerners call this a resurgence of tradition when really it is a new brand of modern conservative values.